Puglia

Puglia Biking – Otranto

The penultimate city on the trip was Puglia’s very cool port city of Otranto. We biked over the next morning after our 50-mile ride down the Adriatic coast to check it out, then hustled back to the masseria to hang out for the rest of the day.

Quintessential Italy – a row of scooters in front of Otranto’s big castle
15th-century Aragonese castle with a now-dry moat
Unlike Ostuni, which was set back from the coast, Otranto’s a port town
Steps to nowhere
Castle courtyard
Very cool cardboard sculpture of a Vespa at an exhibition being held at the Castello Aragonese
The fortified city’s sea gate
Creepy cherubim
I.M. Pei-esque castle wall
Mural in the castle’s dungeon
Around town in Otranto
Otranto’s Cattredale dell’Annunziata
17th-century Gothic rose window on what was originally a 12th century Romanesque (much better than Gothic) cathedral
Ceiling’s cool, but . . .
. . . the floor’s the real show. A 12th-century mosaic of the tree of life
The good . . .
the bad . . .
. . . and the wacky.
The monk who did the floor over decades had never actually seen an elephant
The Turks raided the city in 1480 and massacred the bishop and 800 citizens
Their bones are in one of the cathedral’s chapels
The cattredale’s piazza
The coast is right around the corner
Definitely a great town to spend the morning.

Actual travel date: September 7, 2013

Categories: Biking, Italy, Puglia, Puglia, Italy | Tags: , | Leave a comment

Puglia Biking – Lost in Translation

Outside of the medieval centers of the old cities, when we’re on the road, we don’t typically get lost on these bike trips. But, holy crap, we go all over the place trying to find our destination hotel or route starting point in the old towns. It’s really frustrating when it happens–particularly arriving into a new town, and the only thing between our current sweaty selves and lounging, scrubbed clean, with a couple of glasses of prosecco is the damn hotel location.

However, it’s somewhat comical after the fact, particularly when you get to see your attempts from the GPS output from the unit you brought over with you . . .

Here’s trying to find the hotel in Alberobello:

Lost in Alberobello

The hotel is top right, near the residential trulli area. We decided that looking all over the place on the hill to the south would be a better bet, apparently.

Here’s our desperate attempt to find the hotel in Ostuni:

Lost in Ostuni

Frankly, the way we ultimately found our way to the hotel was when Lisa spotted their little tuk tuk driving some guests up the hill into the historic center – centro storico:

IMG_5222

And, although we haven’t gotten there yet in the blog posts, here’s our feverish attempt to find our hotel in Lecce:

Lost in Lecce

We typically stop for a leisurely lunch in a town on the way during our rides, but we rode straight through from Otronto to Lecce and were hungry and thirsty when we arrived. We could not wait to sit down and relax for a late lunch, but these towns totally close down at 3:00, and it was almost 2:00 when we arrived. I actually turned off the GPS unit before we found it because it kept beeping and I was so pissed.

One of the reasons it took so long to find our place (we had directions, but they never really help after you’re in the maze of tiny streets in the centro storico) was that we knew that it was right across from the celebrated baroque basilica, so we were looking for that. The problem is, as you can see from the photo, there’s a big ass church every 200 feet in Lecce and all of them look like cathedrals or basilicas. So, we kept riding around and around these churches looking fruitlessly for our place. We split up (actually, I took off confident that I’d find it and come back for Lisa) and Lisa ended up finding it and calling me . . .

Categories: Biking, Italy, Puglia, Puglia, Italy | Tags: , | 2 Comments

Puglia Biking – Lecce

Our final ride was from the masseria near Otranto to Lecce, the “Florence of the South.” Full of over-the-top, ornate, Baroque architecture. It also appeared to have a higher cathedral/basilica density than any other city we’ve ever been to in Europe.

Actual travel date: September 8, 2013

Categories: Biking, Italy, Puglia, Puglia, Italy | Tags: , | Leave a comment

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