Really interesting article in today’s New York Times about North Macedonia’s claim that Alexander is their native son, much to the infuriation of Greece. Historians agree that Alexander (and his father Philip) both originate from the Macedonia region of Greece, south of the country of North Macedonia. But historical realities don’t discourage the nationalistic fervor of the North Macedonians in creating a national identity for themselves.
We encountered all of this during our bike trip through Macedonia and Albania a few years ago, including the presence of oversize statues of Alexander, his father Philip, and a 10th-century Bulgarian king (who also isn’t native to Macedonia).
Greece’s Alexander the Great, prominently displayed during our trip in Skopje, North Macedonia’s capital:
And across the bridge, his father, Philip of Macedon (also not North Macedonian):
One one side of Skopje’s main square squats Samuil, the Tsar of the First Bulgarian Empire from 997 to 1014 (also not North Macedonian, enraging the Bulgarians, as noted in today’s NYT article):
And on the other side, a couple of more recent heros of the Balkan region – maybe Macedonian, maybe Bulgarian. All of this is a little disputed.
We spent our last couple of days in the Cotswolds (Part 2, with Wales in between the two parts) poking around the hiking-distance villages of Southrop, Fyfields, and Eastleach, and driving one day to Bibury. As you’ll note below, “village” is a bit overblown of a descriptor for the first three settlements. Even “hamlet” is stretching it a bit. They were all tiny. But super charming. Bibury shares some of the small stature with the others, but, as you’ll see, it’s recognized nationally for its utter cuteness and so draws visitors in a way that the other three absolutely do not.
Our first hike the morning after we arrived in Southrop from Bath, via the unplanned stop in Stonehenge:
The UK trail system and access across fields continued to reward us with beautiful bucolic views and the occasional livestock encounter.
This way to Eastleach:
A picturesque row of cottages in Eastleach built in 1875:
The last one of which is topped by a clock tower – the architect apparently simply thought it would be a nice addition:
We agree.
The village’s tiny war memorial:
Back in Southrop, the 12th-century St. Peter’s church one morning on the way to a hike:
It’s got an unusually grand Norman arch over the north entrance for a tiny little church:
But the herringbone stonework clearly identifies the structure as late Saxon (of which not many remain in England) – predating the Norman adornments:
Pretty cool church graveyard, including an unusual casket-shaped stone ornamentation on one of the tombs:
Poking around Fyfields:
And a day trip to Bibury to see what the fuss is all about and also to grab some lunch. Here, you can mail a package AND pick up presents!
Bibury dates as far back as the Domesday Book (1086) and was once described by William Morris (one of the founders / originators / champions / whatever of the Arts and Crafts movement) as “the most beautiful village in England.”
And THIS is what all the fuss is about – Arlington Row:
Originally built in the 14th century as a wool store. . .
the row of structure later was converted into weavers’ cottages in the 17th century.
More Thomas Kinkade-y cottages elsewhere in town (which was, indeed, super charming – its reputation is definitely well-earned).
And lunch – and for Cod’s sake it’s finally not fish and chips!
Back in Southrop, we were ensconced at a village-within-a-village: Thyme (which scored it a Top 20 lodging location for WolfeStreetTravel):
And after 2 weeks of charming English cottages, finally one of our own to stay in at Thyme:
Pretty awesome (and huge) barn converted to a restaurant:
Our last evening to hang out before heading to London:
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